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There’s a certain magic to Costa Rica – the kind that lingers in the misty treetops, rolls in with the ocean waves, and hums in the call of distant howler monkeys. It’s a place that invites adventure, but in the most effortless way. One moment, you’re trekking through dense jungle, and the next, you’re floating in volcanic hot springs, listening to the rain.
With no rigid plans – just a rental car, a loose itinerary, and an open mind – we set out to see as much as we could. The rainforest. The waterfalls. The beaches. The winding roads that carve through it all. Some days were perfectly smooth; others threw us unexpected detours.
But that’s the beauty of a trip like this – you let Costa Rica take the lead.
DAY 1: Arrive in Liberia, Costa Rica
Our adventure began with a $350 round-trip flight from Austin to Liberia, Costa Rica, thanks to Skyscanner. But, of course, things don't always go as planned. A flight delay made us scrap our sunset plans at the Hanging Bridges.
We quickly pivoted and made our way to La Choza de Laurel, a local spot just minutes from the airport. The first meal of a trip sets the tone, and this one didn’t disappoint – arroz con frijoles, sweet fried plantains, and maracuya-pineapple juices that tasted like sunshine in a glass.
And then there was the banana split – massive, indulgent, and unnecessary in the best possible way.
Fueled up and ready to go, we hit the road toward La Fortuna.
The Drive to La Fortuna
The first stretch was smooth – long open highways, warm air rushing through the windows. Then the landscape began to change. Hills rolled into misty mountains, wind turbines dotted the horizon, and cows balanced impossibly on steep green slopes.
Then came Lake Arenal – Costa Rica’s largest lake, a stunning stretch of blue tucked between rainforest and volcano.
The beauty of it was overwhelming, but as the sun dipped below the mountains, we realized something:
We were about to navigate this jungle road in pitch darkness.
With no streetlights, sharp winding turns, and occasional blinding headlights from oncoming traffic, driving through the rainforest at night felt like stepping into a survival challenge. It’s not impossible, but it’s not for the faint of heart.
By the time we arrived in La Fortuna around 10 p.m., the town was asleep. The only open spot was a so-called “Mexican” restaurant that barely deserved the title (a generous 2/10). But we ate, crashed, and prepared for the adventures ahead.
What we’d do differently: Arrive earlier. We missed seeing Lake Arenal’s full beauty in daylight and had to skip the Hanging Bridges. If you have time, explore both. And maybe don’t take the night drive unless you’re up for an adrenaline rush.
Day 2: Waterfalls, Canyons & A Birthday in the Rainforest
I woke up in Costa Rica on my 30th birthday. No complaints.
The day began with breakfast at Soda Los Rodriguez, a small family-run spot where we were handed wooden signs and blue paint to decorate as we waited for our meal. Something about this place – its warmth, its simplicity – set the perfect tone for the day.
La Fortuna Waterfall
500 steps. That’s what it takes to reach La Fortuna Waterfall, and let me tell you, it burns on the way back up. But the descent? Pure magic.
Halfway down, the sound of rushing water grows louder, a rhythmic pulse through the jungle. And then suddenly, there it is – an astonishing 230-foot waterfall crashing into a deep turquoise pool.
It started raining just as we reached the bottom, warm tropical droplets blending into the mist from the falls. We swam in the cool water, letting the current pull us in and out. The air smelled of wet earth, of something ancient and alive.
Canyoning Through the Rainforest
After drying off, it was time for something completely different – canyoning with Maquique Adventures.
If you’ve never rappelled down a waterfall, let me tell you – it’s one of the most exhilarating things you’ll ever do. One minute, you're standing at the edge of a canyon, gripping a rope. The next, you're descending into the unknown, water rushing around you, adrenaline coursing through your veins.
Each descent got steeper, more challenging. The final drop? A 200-foot rappel straight down a waterfall.
The best part is realizing what your body is capable of – how fear turns into exhilaration when you trust yourself.
At the end of our adventure, they took us to a cozy Soda tucked away in the rainforest. This is where I tasted the most amazing coffee in my life.
We ate some more of the traditional meal. By this point, my husband was getting tired of eating the same (or similar) meal everyday, but I didn’t mind. I actually really enjoyed its simplicity (and how clean, flavorful, and natural their food was).
That night, we celebrated at Don Rufino’s – octopus, rigatoni, steak, cocktails. The presentation of the food and drinks were beautiful, everything was delicious, and the staff sang happy birthday in front of the whole restaurant. A perfect end to an unforgettable day.
Day 3: Whitewater Rafting & Hot Springs
We woke up early for whitewater rafting with Desafio Adventure Company, one of the top-rated adventure tour operators in Costa Rica.
📍 Price: $89 per person
📍 Duration: ~6 hours (including transport & lunch)
📍 Difficulty: Class II-III (perfect for beginners but still thrilling)
The morning started at the meeting point in downtown La Fortuna. From there, a shuttle took us about an hour away to the Balsa River, where our guides gave us a safety briefing before we hit the rapids.
If you’ve never tried whitewater rafting before, don’t let that stop you. They teach you everything – how to paddle, how to brace for impact, and what to do if you fall out (which none of us did, thankfully).
The rapids were fast enough to be exciting but not overwhelming. Between the whitewater, there were stretches of stillness – calm pools where we could jump off the raft and let the current carry us downstream.
Wildlife spotted: sloths, exotic birds, and even a monkey lounging in the trees above us.
At the halfway point, we climbed onto the riverbank, where our guides sliced fresh mangoes and watermelon, passing them around as we rested. After we finished the course, we were shuttled to a local soda hidden in the rainforest, where we had a traditional Costa Rican meal – perfectly seasoned chicken, rice, beans, and plantains.
PS. Leave your belongings in the car. They take photos throughout your journey (and you can split the photo costs with your group – $30 total).
The Magic of the Hot Springs
📍 Price: $45 per person (3-hour time slot)
📍 Booking: Reservations required (book in advance)
We originally planned to visit Tabacón, the most famous hot spring resort in the area, but they were fully booked. So instead, we found ourselves at Ecothermales, a more intimate hot spring experience with a strict cap on visitors. And honestly? It was the best accident of the trip.
Stepping onto the property felt like entering a hidden jungle oasis. No overcrowded pools, no loud chatter – just warm volcanic water cascading through a series of pools surrounded by rainforest.
We arrived 15 minutes before our scheduled time, which turned out to be a genius move – for the first 30 minutes, we had the pools completely to ourselves. Floating in the quiet, warm water, I could feel the last few days of hiking and adrenaline-fueled adventure melt away.
As the night deepened, the sound of the rainforest became more pronounced – the distant croak of frogs, the wind moving the trees. Small lanterns flickered along the pathways, casting soft golden light over the dark pools.
If you go, here’s what you need to know:
✔️ Book in advance – spots fill up quickly, especially during peak season
✔️ Bring a towel – they rent them, but it’s easier to bring your own
✔️ Best time to go: Dusk/Nighttime – it’s very peaceful, and the heat of the pools contrasts beautifully with the cool evening air
By the time we left, we felt recharged – which was perfect, because the next day, we were headed for the coast.
A Promise to Keep: The Hammocks & The Volcano
As we were leaving La Fortuna, we remembered something – a promise we had made earlier in the day.
That morning, while exploring the town, we had stumbled upon a small roadside home-shop with hammocks swaying in the breeze. A kind older couple welcomed us, explaining that they hand-wove the hammocks themselves using recycled materials.
We didn’t have enough cash on us at the time, but we told them we’d be back.
And so, after the hot springs, exhausted and ready for a long drive, we made one last stop. True to our word, we returned to buy two hammocks.
As we stood outside their shop, exchanging smiles and thank-yous, I looked up – and there it was. The sky had turned a deep shade of pink, the sun setting behind Arenal Volcano, its dark silhouette cutting through the sky.
Can you believe that’s their view every day?
We took a moment to soak it all in – the smell of fresh rain in the air, the warmth of the hammocks in our hands, the towering volcano in the distance. It felt like a full-circle moment.
Then, with our new treasures in tow, we set off for the coast.
A Midnight Detour in Playa Flamingo
By the time we reached Conchal/Brasilito, it was well past midnight.
And we were starving.
I was starting to notice a pattern here – late-night road trips and desperate food hunts.
The problem? The only place still open was an outdoor nightclub in Playa Flamingo – pulsing music, flashing lights, and a bouncer charging a ridiculous cover fee. Not exactly what we were looking for.
But we weren’t there to party – just to eat. So we negotiated our way inside, promising we’d only grab food to-go. Surprisingly, they let us in without the cover charge.
With our takeout boxes in hand, we drove toward the water, looking for a quiet place to eat.
We found a small pull-off near the ocean, parked the car, and sat in silence, watching the moonlight ripple across the docked boats. The air smelled like salt and night-blooming flowers, the waves lapping gently against the shore.
It was one of those unplanned moments that ends up feeling just right – a reminder that sometimes, the best parts of a trip aren’t the big planned excursions, but the quiet in-betweens.
Bellies full, ocean breeze filtering through the open windows, we finally called it a night.
Day 4: Beach Hopping in Guanacaste
La Fortuna had stolen our hearts, but we wanted to see Costa Rica’s coastline. The Pacific Ocean was calling.
We left the jungle behind and headed west toward Playa Conchal, stopping for breakfast at Conchal Hotel.
📍 Breakfast price: ~$10-15 per person
📍 Monkeys spotted: Several, casually swinging above our heads
Then, beach-hopping mode: activated.
- Playa Dantita – The kind of place that feels like a secret. A short 2km hike led us to soft golden sand, calm waves, and just a handful of people. No loud music, no tourist crowds – just the sound of the tide and the occasional splash of a jumping fish. We could’ve stayed here all day.
- Playa Danta – A little more lively, with beachfront restaurants. Beautiful, but after the solitude of Dantita, it felt more like a social scene.
- Playa Brasilito – Less polished, more local, the kind of place where fishermen clean their catch on the shore and kids run barefoot across the sand.
- Playa Matapalo – A fun drive to get there, but skip it if you don’t like crowd.
We circled back to Playa Conchal, famous for its crushed shell shoreline, and while the water felt nice under the sun, the reality was a bit different.
The beach was bustling – vendors hawking trinkets, tourists everywhere, and a surprising amount of trash scattered along the shore. I waded into the waves, trying to shake off the chaotic vibe, when a sudden small, sharp sting shot up my arm.
A small jellyfish, perhaps?
It was tiny, just a little thing, and the sting faded after a few minutes, but it added to the overall feeling that Conchal wasn’t the paradise we’d imagined.
If I could do it again? Probably not. I’d skip Conchal and soak in the quiet beauty of Dantita all day long – the untouched, peaceful kind of beach that feels like it’s just for you.
I d recommend Ander's Restaurant, though. It was DELICIOUS.
Day 5: Gong Bath Massage & Sunset in Tamarindo
For something completely different, we booked a gong bath massage in Playa Tamarindo.
The woman had trained under shamans, using sound frequencies, incense, and chanting. It wasn’t luxurious, but it was authentic – an experience you don’t stumble upon often.
Later, we wandered through El Mercadito, a food market filled with flavors from around the world. Arepas, crepes, fresh juice – it was the perfect post-massage refuel.
That evening, we went souvenir shopping and watched the sun melt into the Pacific. No plans, no rush – just golden light and warm ocean air.
Day 6: Departure from Liberia & Final Thoughts
The trip ended where it began – back in Liberia.
As the plane took off, I watched the coastline shrink beneath us, the jungle stretching endlessly beyond it. I didn’t feel ready to leave.
Costa Rica does that to you. It doesn’t just offer adventure – it pulls you in, wraps around you like a thick jungle mist, and lingers long after you’ve gone. It reminds you to trust the journey, to embrace the unexpected, to let yourself be swallowed by the moment.
Would I do it again? In a heartbeat.
But if I could do it differently, I’d spend more time in La Fortuna, less in Guanacaste. The beaches were nice, but the rainforest? The waterfalls? The feeling of being swallowed whole by nature? That’s what made this trip unforgettable.
Next time – Monteverde, Manuel Antonio, and the Caribbean coast.
Until then, I’ll be dreaming of Costa Rica.
Thinking of visiting? Drop me a message – I’d love to help you plan.
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